those last 50 Munros

compleat!

2011-07-03T17:40:00.003+01:00

Aonach Beag and Aonach Mor 2nd July 2011

Compleated at last!

(full story to follow in due course, but here's a few pictures ...)
(... and a link to the local paper ....)

setting out up the Glen Nevis path, 10.30am, sun shining!

Frank, Malcolm and Anne on Sgurr a'Bhuic, 1.30pm

approaching Aonach Beag, with Aonach Mor beyond - the last 2 in sight!

and he's made it! top of Aonach Mor, 3.30pm, Saturday 2nd July 2011

and the full summit party: L to R Ben Nevis, Fiona Bethune, Anne Bethune, Allan Findlay (compleated), Ann Findlay (compleated), me (just compleated!), Frank Frame, Frances Bethune, Malcolm FIndlay

Thanks to all who climbed with me or joined me on the summit (especially those who brought the champagne, cake and other goodies!); special thanks to Winky O'Neale for the "In Pinn"; sorry about those who couldn't make it - I wish you could all have been there, but we'll have a Munro party in Selkirk in the Autumn for anyone who's been with me on a Munro over the last 35 years!

May God shield us in the valleys,

May Christ aid us on the mountains,

May the Holy Spirit embrace us on the slopes,

In hollow, on hill, on plain, mountain, valley and plain.

May God's goodness be ours

And well, and seven times well, may we spend our lives.

3,2: A'Chralaig and Mullach Fraoch-Choire

2011-06-16T19:37:00.034+01:00

A' Chralaig and Mullach Fraoch-Choire 16th June 2011

Steadily closing in on that elusive last Munro! The final quest has been plagued by one of the most unsettled early summers for years. Finding good weather days that coincide with work-free days has proved to be a challenge. And so, needing only two more good days, the long weekend of Selkirk Common Riding looked like an opportunity. I was working in Glasgow on the Wednesday, and Anne wouldn't be free until 3pm, so we planned to meet up in Stirling at 7pm. Anne travelled up by bus and train; I drove up from Glasgow after my meeting.

We had a lovely run up via Loch Lubnaig, Tyndrum, Rannoch Moor and Glencoe, and reached Spean Bridge where we had booked B and B at The Braes Guest House. In addition to the comfy room, friendly welcome and good breakfast, this proved to be an inspired choice, as the lounge provided panoramic views to the Grey Corries and the bedroom to Aonach Mor ....

Aonach Mor from Braes Guest House, Spean Bridge

But, before "compleating" on Aonach Mor, I still had to climb A' Chralaig and Mullach Fraoch-Choire above Loch Cluamie, so that was the immediate target.

So, on Thursday morning, we set off from Spean Bridge; we were a little later getting to the starting point on the shore of Loch Cluanie, as road works meant a diversion round by Fort Augustus and Invermoriston.

So it was 10.50am when we set off from the tiny car parking area, crossed the road, walked 10m up the track, and then struck off right at a cairn up a small and initially rather damp path, heading directly up the steep slope ahead. Behind us, the views across Loch Cluanie opened up nicely, and the overcast sky started to show signs of breaking up. Loch Cluanie itself was like a sheet of glass.

view across Loch Cluanie to the South Glen Shiel ridge

The path quickly climbed out of the damp lower ground, and started to climb steeply up alongside a small burn. We continued relentlessly upwards on the path until it reached the broad southern ridge of A' Chralaig ("the basket") at around 750m. An hour an a half into our walk, and most of the hard work was over!

gradient lessening as we reached the ridge - view across to Am Bathach

By now, the summit was in view, about a mile away, up a broad, stepped, grassy ridge.

on the ridge of A' Chralaig at about 800m

We continued over a couple of minor bumps on the ridge; although I usually like to visit any Munro tops, I decided against a detour out to A' Chioch ("the breast"), a Munro top on a long grassy ridge out to the east, which didn't look very enticing, and would have added a tiresome re-ascent. Maybe I'll come back and visit it some day!

on the path round the rim of the eastern corries, before the final rise to the summit of A' Chralaig

Despite the earlier patches of blue sky, the clouds were beginning to build up, and there were clearly some showers around - hopefully, they would all miss our hills. Two and a 1/2 hours from the car, we arrived at A' Chralaig's massive summit cairn - reminiscent of the Three Brethren back home!

Anne at summit of A' Chralaig

Time for a rest and a bite to eat, sitting on a nice ledge of flat stones with our backs to the cairn. As we sat there, the clouds were rolling up behind us, and the first few wisps of mist started to catch the summit. It was time to move on.

Anne sheltering while the shower passed over

The ridge ahead to Mullach Fraoch-Choire ("hill of the heathery coire") looked good, and we set off along it, descending slowly at first, then down a few rocky steps.
Less than ten minutes after leaving the summit, a squally shower caught us - wind and cold rain. Fortunately, there was a handy sheltering place behind a little rock wall to the right of the path, so we "cooried doon" there for 10-15 minutes while the shower passed by.

The sun and blue sky re-appeared, but there was still a cold wind, so we kept on our extra layers as we descended down to the next bealach, then made a gentle ascent to the next top, Stob Coire a' Chralaig. From here, the full profile of Na Geurdain ("the jaggies"), the south ridge of Mullach Fraoch-Choire, came into view. Looked like fun!

Na Geurdain from Stob Coire na Cralaig

looking back towards A' Chralaig from Stob Coire na Cralaig

First, a short descent down a narrow ridge to the next bealach at 950m, then a short ascent up to the start of the pinnacles. A traverse along the crest itself would have been tricky in places, but it was straightforward to follow the path all the way as it wound its way through the pinnacles, first on the right, then crossing over to the left.

A' Chralaig from Na Geurdain

Anne on the split rock just before the final climb to the summit

The walk from Stob Coire na Cralaig to Mullach Fraoch-choire was definitely the best 40 minutes of the day! Once past the final pinnacle, a short climb up a grassy slope led to the summit - with another (not quite so) large cairn, and a circular stone shelter.

summit of Mullach Fraoch-choire - 2 to go!

The weather had improved again, so we found a comfy spot to sit an enjoy the view down Glen Affric and eat our second instalment of lunch. Only 2 more Munros to go!

Glen Affric from the summit of Mullach Fraoch-choire

After half an hour on the summit, we headed back along the pinnacled ridge - making a few detours this time to explore the crest.

on the way back along Na Geurdain

At the bealach, we decided not to take the path down into Coire Odhar, but climbed back to Stob Coire na Cralaig, and descended down its SW ridge - grassy all the way, but quite steep lower down. This gave good views of the waterfalls of the Allt Coire a' Ghlas-thuill, but was quite a tiring descent. Perhaps Coire Odhar would have been a better choice.

Eventually, we reached the valley floor right on the watershed, and followed the boggy and intermittent path south until it joined an old metalled track, which led down An Caorainn Mor to the car - about 3 miles.

An excellent day. The big question: would the weather hold for "compleating" on the Aonachs tomorrow?

Aonach Mor from the Command Monument above Spean Bridge

A check of the on-line weather forecast at 7.30pm showed persistent rain and low cloud for tomorrow and Saturday, so we decided the celebrations would have to wait. Who wants to get soaked on their last Munro?!

Looks like the weekend of 2-3rd July will be the next opportunity! Maybe see you then?

Summary:

2 Munros + 1 top (twice!)

14 km walk

1200 m climb

7.5 hours

Log:

left car	10:50
reached ridge	12:20
A' Chralaig (M)	13:20 - 13:40
Stob Coire na Cralaig (T)	14:30
Mullach Fraoch-Choire (M)	15:10 - 15:40
Stob Coire na Cralaig (T)	16:15
back at car	18:30

written 18/06/11

6,5,4: Fisherfield Trio

2011-06-03T16:32:00.039+01:00

Beinn Tarsuinn, Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair and Sgurr Ban 3rd June 2011

Yesterday had been a 10 hour day for only one Munro, and had left me feeling pretty tired. Was I up to another big day with 3 Munros and 2 tops? These were the questions going through my mind as I woke early in the car park at Kinlochewe. At least the weather was looking good ...

Base Camp - Kinlochewe car park!

Beinn Eighe - a dramatic backdrop above Kinlochewe

After an initial start up the wrong road (!), I set off by bike at 8.20am, and made good speed along the excellent farm road on the north bank of the Abhainn Bruachaig, towards Heights of Kinlochewe.

On the way, I passed a young couple heading in the same direction (later referred to as "the greyhounds" by another group I met on the hill!). The first significant obstacle appeared after 5km, when the bike had to be manhandled up over a high ladder stile. The track continued now, uphill, for another 3km up Gleinn na Muice. Most of this required pushing the bike, but I knew it would be worthwhile for the return journey.

At the top of the track, a confusing sign indicated 2 footpaths - but with arrows pointing in the wrong directions! Someone had helpfully scrawled "consult your map" on the sign! I followed the excellent, newly rebuilt path heading towards the mountains. Directly ahead lay all my target hills (except Sgurr Ban, hidden behind the Mullach) ...

L to R: Beinn Tarsuinn, Meall Garbh, Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair, east top and Sgurr Dubh

To the left, Slioch ("the spear") rose steeply above the moor, looking more like its name from this less often viewed direction.

Slioch, from the east, with Sgurr an Thuill Bhan the prominent spear-like peak on the right

A couple of miles up the path, Lochan Fada came into view (and I was overtaken by "the greyhounds" - the benefit of having young legs!)

view along Lochan Fada, with Beinn Lair on the left

Just before the main path dropped down to the shores of the loch, I struck off to the right on a small path heading roughly towards my hill. Unfortunately this path soon petered out (it might have been better to continue down to the shore and find a better path from there), but the way ahead was fairly easy going across gradually rising moorland towards Meall Garbh.

view across Lochan Fada to its outflow down Gleann Bianasdail

the Mullach from just above Bealach Odhar on my way up Beinn Tarsuinn

The slope gradually steepened as I toiled upwards keeping to the right hand side of a prominent ravine coming down below Bealach Odhar. Crossing the burn above the ravine, I made my way up a series of sandstone layers on the left, and then more steeply up grassy slopes to join the path leading up to the summit of Beinn Tarsuinn ("the transverse mountain"). The "greyhounds" scurried past on their way down!

4 hours after leaving Kinlochewe, I arrived on the dramatic summit of Beinn Tarsuinn. The approach had been up mainly grassy slopes; in contrast, the north side of the mountain was composed of sandstone cliffs dropping away to the top of (another) Gleann na Muice.

from the summit, looking down to "the table" on Beinn Tarsuinn's west ridge

from Beinn Tarsuinn, Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair looked dauntingly massive

looking north from Beinn Tarsuinn's summit

After taking in the panoramic view, I "cooried doon" in a wee hollow behind the cairn to eat my sandwiches, and to get out of the strong breeze blowing in from the west.

a fine spot for a bit of lunch! - 6 Munros to go ...

After a chat with another group of walkers, I set off back down the east ridge towards the Bealach Odhar - nice to be going downhill for a while!

Meall Garbh ("rough lump") sits between Beinn Tarsuinn and the Mullach, but fortunately there is a handy little by-pass path skirting under the cliffs on the north side. Once at the next bealach, the climb to the summit of Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair was easier and shorter than it had looked earlier. The 250m climb was initially up through sandstone outcrops, then on quartzite boulders, so there was plenty to think about, using hands and feet and walking pole to progress. Soon enough, the slope eased, and the huge summit cairn was just ahead around the final curve of the ridge above shattered cliffs.

approaching the summit of Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair, with Sgurr Ban beyond

Only 5 to go! Stopped for a while to chat with a "cheery trio". It turned out than one of the three was on her 4th last Munro - so just one ahead of me - and planned to continue over Sgurr Ban and Beinn a' Chlaidheimh - leaving just two more - oddly enough, Beinn Bhuidhe and Meall Buidhe ("yellow hill" and "yellow hill"!) I wonder which of us will "compleat" first?

On Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair - 5 to go - Beinn Tarsuinn in the background

Now it was time to pay for yesterday's decision - out and back to Sgurr Ban. I scampered off down the steep path, leaving the "cheery trio" to descend more slowly. In places it was possible to leave a footprint in the dry white quartzite sand on the path - almost like beach sand. The next bealach was at 820m, so quickly reached, especially slithering down the last steep section of path on very loose scree.

looking back to Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair from Sgurr Ban - scree path clearly visible

The ascent to Sgurr Ban didn't take long - only 160m of ascent - then a walk across the huge level summit plateau to the cairn. Again I was glad of the shelter from the strong westerly breeze, while I refuelled with food and coffee.

Sgurr Ban's amazing stony summit plateau - looking from the cairn towards An Teallach

Well, that was the last Munro of the day, but I still had to return over the Mullach (unfortunately), then take in its two outlying tops on my way "home".

Once again, the re-ascent wasn't as bad as it looked, and probably vindicated yesterday's decision. As I'm not intending to complete a "second round", I cut off from the path below the summit, and contoured across (over some massive boulders) to gain the east ridge. The east top was only 500m away, with a re-ascent of only 20m, so hardly deserved its "top" status. However, it was a good place of another short rest, and gave good views across to Sgurr Ban (below).

well seen why it is called Sgurr Ban ("the white peak")

Ahead lay one more top, Sgurr Dubh, reached along a narrowish ridge with "easy scrambling" according to the guide books. From the east top, it certainly looked inviting!

Sgurr Dubh from the east top

First a straightforward descent to the next bealach, Cab a Choire Ghuirm ("notch of the blue coire"), followed by a very "interesting" scramble up a rocky ridge, then over and round a couple of pinnacles to reach the top. A faint path showed the best way, mainly keeping to the right side, but plenty of "hands on rock" was required to progress safely. I was acutely aware that there was no-one else around to pick up the pieces if I made a mistake.

looking back over the scrambly section of Sgurr Dubh - Beinn Tarsuinn behind

Anyway, there were no mishaps, and soon I was safely on the top of Sgurr Dubh. So, a "white peak" and a "black peak" only a mile apart! I continued to the next little bump on the ridge, and sat down to enjoy the view. Minutes later, I was surprised to see two walkers appearing up the east ridge, having come up over the Sgurr Ban slabs from Loch an Nid.

from Sgurr Dubh, looking down over the Sgurr Ban slabs to Loch an Nid

By now it was nearly 5pm, and I was still far from base, so began the descent down the easy southern slopes of Sgurr Dubh, following a line of crags (below) down to around 700m, where a way could be made down through the crags into Coire Mhic Fhearchair.

looking back up from Coire Mhic Fhearchair to Sgurr Dubh, from just below the line of crags

Once across the burn flowing out of the coire, it was possible to contour easily across a wide gently sloping grassy area to reach the foot of another parallel line of crags, Creag Ghlas Bheag. Beyond this, the moorland sloped down towards Lochan Fada, and the main path home.

All that remained was the 2 mile walk back to the bike (it seemed a good deal further on weary legs!), then a fine downhill trundle to Heights of Kinlochewe, over the ladder stile, and a fast cycle back down the valley to Kinlochewe.

A great expedition!

Summary:

3 Munros + 2 tops

19 km walk + 16 km cycle

1600 m climb

11.5 hours

Log:

left car	08:20
left bike	09:25
Lochan Fada	10:30
Beinn Tarsuinn (M)	12:20 - 12:40
Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair (M)	13:45 - 14:00
Sgurr Ban (M)	14:45 - 15:00
MCMF east top (T)	15:55 - 16:05
Sgurr Dubh (T)	16:30 - 16:55
Lochan Fada	18:00 - 18:05
back to bike	19:10
Kinlochewe	19:50

written 13/06/11

7: one of the lowest, but certainly not easiest!

2011-06-02T07:29:00.005+01:00

Beinn a' Chlaidheimh 2nd June 2011

After the wonderful weather at the start of May, the rest of the month was a big disappointment - unseasonably wet and windy almost every day, especially in the north west. I had earmarked the week beginning 28th May, while Anne was away at Whithaugh Park on a residential with Selkirk High School pupils, to try to get down to the last 2 Munros. As the dates approached, the weather forecasts showed no sign of improvement. The weekend arrived, but I decided there was little point heading off into the murk, so stayed put in Selkirk. By midweek, it looked like there was a fighting chance of getting 2 or 3 good days towards the end of the week. And so it was that, on the Wednesday afternoon, with the Espace packed with sleeping bag, bike, walking gear, food and maps, I set off. Headlights were required on the Edinburgh by-pass at 5pm - not a promising start! Anyway, I arrived ay Corriehallie at 10pm on a drizzly evening, parked up, and crawled into the sleeping bag.

Next morning, 7am, was bright and breezy - a blue sky, with some white fluffy clouds speeding past. Looked like the long drive had been worthwhile. I set off up the track at 8.30am, chatting to a group of 3 who were en route to Shenavall, one of whom was hoping to climb his last Corbett. My plan was to climb Beinn a'Chlaidheimh and (possibly) continue to Sgurr Ban.

Ahead and to the right, An Teallach (22 years since I was up there!) started to appear as I made steady progress up the track. It was a good track for walking, but would have been too rough for the bike.

up the Corrie Hallie track, with An Teallach to the right

After 3 miles steady walking, I reached the highest point on the track at 380m - what a pity I had to drop back down to 120m to cross the river (and climb back up again on the way back!).

Beinn a'Chlaidheimh was now visible ahead - and free from cloud ...

R to L: Beinn a'Chlaidheimh, Sgurr Ban (with cloud cap) and the east top of Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair

... although the jagged ridge of An Teallach was tearing the clouds dramatically on the right.

Corrag Bhuidhe, Lord Berkeley's Seat and Sgurr Fiona

Starting to descend, the Abhainn Loch an Nid looked like it might mean getting feet wet, but not too badly. With all the rain over the previous few days, I had been slightly concerned that the crossing might be impossible.

view up the valley of the Abhainn Loch an Nid

By 10.30am, two hours from the car, I was at the river bank, looking for the best crossing point. At close quarters, the river didn't look quite so easy to cross. Feet were going to get wet, for sure, and it was too rough and fast flowing for bare feet. So, boots and socks off, spare socks on, and boots back on; trouser legs rolled up above knees, then head gingerly across. First 1/3 was on stepping stones, next 1/3 was wading, but less than knee-deep - no problem. The last 1/3, however, was fairly fast-flowing and thigh deep - no real danger to life and limb, but I was most worried about my camera if I should slip and fall in! Steady and careful movements, heavy reliance on the walking pole, and - whew! - made it safely to the far back. Boots off, water poured out, dry socks back on, and damp boots back on. Now, 2.5 hours after leaving the car, I could actually start to climb my hill. Beinn a'Claidheimh (hill of the sword) may be the 4th lowest Munro at 916m, but it was proving hard to get!

Next came a steady slog up heathery slopes onto Creag Ghlas, then easier ground over a series of sandstone pavements towards Beinn a'Chlaidheimh's rocky northern end.

heading towards Beinn a' Chlaidheimh's northern end

Had some fun finding a way through various rocky outcrops, then found a tiny path which led up onto the summit ridge at about 750m.

This proved to be (a) a very windy place, but (b) a superb viewpoint

looking NE towards Corrie Hallie, and the approach track

looking NW to Beinn Dearg Mhor and Loch na Sealga

looking north to An Teallach and Loch na Sealga

By now, it was 1pm and the amount of cloud had built up, but, although the clouds were catching some of the surrounding hills, there were passing above lowly Beinn a' Chlaidheimh.

Now on the summit ridge, with long scree slopes to the left, and dramatic sandstone cliffs falling away to the right, it was a short walk over two minor tops to the summit, where I was glad to sit down on the lee side of the ridge, with a strong breeze whistling overhead.

looking north from the summit cairn towards the middle top, with An Teallach beyond

The next question was whether to go on to Sgurr Ban or not. It would add several miles onto an already long day, and require a decent and re-ascent of over 300m. On the other hand, if I left it to the next day, it would mean adding time and distance onto a long expedition.

Sgurr Ban and Beinn Tarsuinn from Beinn a' Chlaidheimh

In the end, the sight of low cloud scudding fast across the summit plateau of Sgurr Ban, and more building up behind it, plus the thought of the long walk back out, helped me make my decision - leave it for tomorrow!

So, I headed off SW down stony, then grassy heathery slopes, with a few sandstone outcrops, towards the valley below.

What an amount of water pouring down the burns on both sides of the glen!

I aimed for a wide gravelly part of the Abhainn Loch an Nid, about a mile upstream from where I had crossed earlier. Would it be possible to get back across dry-shod this time? At any rate, it should be a bit easier.

fast flowing burn pouring over sandstone outcrops on east slopes of Beinn a'Chlaidheimh

An hour from the summit, I reached the river and started looking for a crossing point. A broad area with an island looked the most promising, and proved to be fine - nowhere more than knee deep, and the current much less than the previous place.

Once across, boot emptying, and another change into dry socks was required.

drying my feet after the river crossing - hey, didn't realise the wind had done that to my hair!

(left) Another impressive waterfall, on the east side of the glen just opposite where I had crossed the river.

And so, the long walk home:

a good path alongside the river to the first crossing point, then back up the track to the plateau, before dropping wearily back down through Corrie Hallie.

The walk out was the best part of 6 miles, and took 2.5 hours.

I was glad I had decided to leave Sgurr Ban for another day!

The evening sunshine reflecting off wet slabs made An Teallach look positively volcanic! (below)

Today's summary:

1 Munro
23 km walk
1400 m climb
10 hours

Log:

left car
08:30

river crossing
10:35 - 11:00

north top
13:15

middle top
13:25

Beinn a' Chlaidheimh (M)
13:30 - 14:05

river crossing
15:10 - 15:50

back to car
18:20

But that wasn't the end of the day - it was completed with a lovely drive around the coast road to Kinlochewe on a perfect evening ....

Beinn Ghobhlach, across Little Loch Broom

Gruinard Bay

Torridon Hills above Poolewe

posted by DB 12/06/11

9,8: the round of Coire Lair

2011-05-02T21:25:00.001+01:00

Beinn Liath Mhor and Sgorr Ruadh 2nd May 2011

(note: this blog entry contains one image that some may find disturbing - you have been warned!)

The "big grey hill" and the "red peak". Two contrasting hills - one of quartzite, the other sandstone - standing on opposite sides of Coire Lair, behind Achnashellach Station.

Fuar Tholl catches the morning sun above Achnashellach Station

Despite having covered 36km yesterday, this was too good a day to rest. I had parked overnight in the big layby opposite the Achnashellach station lane, so woke early - a combination of the dawn chorus, and the early morning traffic. However, that suited my purpose - to climb two Munros, then drive home to Selkirk in the evening.

So, at 7.20am, I set off up to the station, crossed the line at the level crossing, and up the forest track towards Coire Lair.

Already, the morning sun was striking the cliffs of Fuar Tholl.

Fuar Tholl comes into full view

1km up the track, a waymark indicated the path leaving the track sharply to the left, then through the deer fence by a gate, and turning to follow the stream uphill through the pines. This was a lovely early morning walk, and soon I was out of the woods, and climbing steadily upwards on a good path, much of it rebuilt.

climbing steadily, and Beinn Liath Mhor comes into view for the first time

At 8.40am, up the last rocky section of the path, the vast trough of Coire Lair appeared: Beinn Liath Mhor forming the right hand wall, and Sgorr Ruadh dominating the left.

looking up Coire Lair

At a cross-road of paths, a choice had to be made: a clockwise circuit, or anti-clockwise? The path leading up towards Sgorr Ruadh looked attractive, but I decided to stick to the original plan, and tackle the steepest slope first, so I turned right and headed towards the foot of Beinn Liath Mhor's south-eastern end. I soon realised that all the small burns were completely dry (I don't suppose that is often the case up here!), so detoured back down to the river to refill my water bottles. It looked like it could be a hot and thirsty day ahead!

At 9am, I began the ascent up a steep path, in short zigzags between rocks, grass and scree. Hard going, but gaining height very rapidly. The views across to Fuar Tholl encouraged frequent stops!

Fuar Tholl, with the prominent Mainreachan Buttress,
viewed from the path climbing towards Beinn Liath Mhor's southeast top

At about 650m, the gradient eased a little, then the final 100m or so were up a tedious quartzite boulder field, with a number of deceptive false tops. At 10.20am, the southeast top came into view, and with it a superb view to the north. I sat down gratefully to enjoy the views.

southeast top of Beinn Liath Mhor (876m)

looking north over Sgurr nan Lochan Uaine to Liathach's pinnacled ridge

Smoke was rising from the flanks of Mullach an Rathain, and from the glen behind it; later I discovered that this was a massive forest fire, which devastated large areas of regenerating Caledonian Pine forest. A helicopter was buzzing around - apparently it had been used to rescue walkers, trapped by the fires below, from one of the summits, and was now being used to water bomb parts of the area.

the eastern tops of Beinn Eighe behind Beinn Liath Beag (right) and Sgorr Dubh (centre)

the western tops of Beinn Eighe (Sail Mhor, Coinneach Mhor and Ruadh-Stac Mor)

While sitting there, I was overtaken by a man and dog - both moving pretty quickly - who disappeared on along the ridge ahead.

The 2km ridge walk to Beinn Liath Mhor's main top looked an enjoyable prospect, and so it proved, with fine views to left and right. Firstly, a couple of small ups and downs led to the middle top (887m) in 25 minutes.

main summit of Beinn Liath Mhor from the middle top

I continued on along the ridge for another half hour, views changing all the time, then a short climb to the final narrower shattered summit arete. As I arrived at the summit, the man and dog I had spoken to earlier were just about to leave - the dog had sore paws from the sharp quartzite, so was about to get a carry down the next section!

looking back along the summit ridge to the middle top and southeast top

the rocky summit of Beinn Liath Mhor

Once again, time for a good long rest, something to eat, a cup of coffee, and a chance to look around at the magnificent views.

to the NW, the view was dominated by the great southern walls of Liathach,
with the Am Fasarinen pinnacles standing out against the blue sky

and, at Liathach's western end, the dramatic fires still burning, sending up a huge pall of smoke

to the north, the eastern tops of Beinn Eighe, with A'Mhaighdean in the distance

dramatic views across Coire Lair to Sgorr Ruadh from Beinn Liath Mhor

After 20 minutes rest, I set off again. The path dropped down steeply at first through quartzite blocks, then levelled out on the sandstone plateau of Sail Garbh at around 800m.

the cairn showing the way down to the first bealach

The guide books warn of a ring of crags to be negotiated, and the main path seemed to be heading off SW into Coire Lair. I didn't want to lose unnecessary height, so I ignored the path, and continued tentatively directly west towards the bealach.

A small path seemed to be heading directly towards a cliff edge, but a small cairn (left) indicated where a path dropped steeply down to the first bealach at 700m.

I descended carefully down to the lochan, and followed a faint path which contoured round the south side of the small rocky (un-named) hill ahead. (You can see this in profile on the earlier picture looking up Coire Lair)

From this vantage point at the head of Coire Lair, the view of Beinn Liath Mhor's south face was particularly striking.

Beinn Liath Mhor seen from the path round the un-named hill at the head of Coire Lair

This path then dropped down to a second bealach, again with a lochan, at around 650m. I couldn't see any path ascending the grassy slope ahead, so selected what looked the best line, and 10m up the slope found a well-defined path suddenly appeared and followed the exact route I had chosen!

looking north through the second bealach towards Liathach and Beinn Eighe

The path led up on to Sgorr Ruadh's north west ridge, which then ascended in a series of steps, and after 50 minutes of hard slog led out to Sgorr Ruadh's summit, the second Munro of the day.

retrospect of Beinn Liath Mhor from about 800m on Sgorr Ruadh's NW ridge

and Sgorr Ruadh's northern cliffs, from the same vantage point

Sgorr Ruadh proved to be another fine viewpoint, which deserved a 15 minute rest! (No sign of the man and dog - my guess was that he had decided that the dog had suffered enough, and headed back down Coire Lair).

Maol Chean-dearg and Beinn Damh from Sgorr Ruadh

Beinn Liath Mhor's middle and southeast tops from Sgorr Ruadh

It would have been fine to lie there in the sun for longer, but the small matter of a long drive back to Selkirk demanded that I continue my circuit. Sgorr Ruadh's southern side is a boad grassy flank, in sharp contrast to its northern cliffs, so the descent to the hummocky bealach was pretty easy, though the legs were now tiring.

The dramatic cliffs of Fuar Tholl beckoned, but the Corbett would have to wait for another day. Fuar Tholl means "cold hole", probably referring to the deep northern coire that never sees any direct sunlight (below).

Fuar Tholl from near the the summit of Sgorr Ruadh

Fuar Tholl, with the forbidding Mainreachan Buttress, from the Bealach Mor

As I descended to the Bealach Mor, I could see a good stalkers' path leading down into Coire Lair - but between the foot of Sgorr Ruadh and that path lay a maze of lochans (at least 17 on the 1:25000 OS map!) and a moonscape of rocky hillocks. This was a wonderful little landscape, but by now my legs were too tired to appreciate it, and my water bottles were both empty. I wound my way through, found the path, and soon reached running water (for the first time since 9am!)

just one of the many lochans on the Bealach Mor between Sgorr Ruadh and Fuar Tholl!

The path was a welcome sight, but it was rough and stony, and jarring on tired legs as I hurried downhill. An hour and a half after leaving the summit of Sgorr Ruadh, I was back down to the river in Coire Lair.

What a joy to take off the boots, and plunge my hot tired feet into the cold water!

(sorry, I warned you there was a rather disturbing image to come!)

All that was now left was to speed down the excellent path from the mouth of Coire Lair back to Achnashellach and the car.

What a superb day!

the lovely shady wooded path on the way down to Achnashellach

So, 2 bonus days - leaving only 8 more new Munros to climb:

Beinn a Claidheimh
Sgurr Ban
Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair
Beinn Tharsuinn
Mullach Fraoch-Choire
A' Chralaig
Aonach Beag
Aonach Mor

... and back home to Selkirk at 9pm, via the best pizza ever at Dingwall!

posted DB 16/05/11

Today's summary:

2 Munros

17 km walk

1370 m climb

9 hours

Log:

left car	07:20
Coire Lair	08:40 - 09:00
BLM south top (876m)	10:20 - 10:40
BLM middle top (887m)	11:05
Beinn Liath Mhor (M)	11:35 - 11:55
1st bealach	12:20
2nd bealach	12:40
Sgorr Ruadh (M)	13:30 - 13:45
river crossing	15:15 - 15:25
car	16:10

11,10: Attadale expedition

2011-05-01T18:07:00.000+01:00

Lurg Mhor and Bidein a'Choire Sheasgaich 1st May 2011

With only 12 more Munros to climb, a plan had been laid to head up north at the very end of May. Easter holidays were taken up with a trip to Madrid (where we managed a day in the Sierra de Guadarrama), and all the other weekends in May had other engagements already pencilled in.

However, a large stable high pressure system settled itself over northern UK at the end of April, and I was unable to resist the opportunity for an earlier-than-expected trip north. And so, having celebrated Dad's 88th birthday, I set off from Newcastleton up the M74 at 3.30pm on Saturday 30th April.

What a beautiful evening, with fantastic views of the hills as I took the scenic route up through Callander, over Rannoch Moor and down through Glencoe. After refuelling at Fort William (diesel for the car, smoked sausage supper for me!), and with the light beginning to fade, I continued up by Loch Lochy and Loch Garry.

the "map of Scotland" viewpoint above Loch Garry

Leaving all the traffic behind, I eventually rolled into the walkers' car park at Attadale Gardens at 10pm, and settled down for a sleep in the Espace.

Next morning, the dawn chorus woke me before 6am, but I snoozed until 7. This was going to be a big day - cycling, walking and climbing - and as the first Munro outing of the year, I wasn't sure how the old legs would respond!

Attadale car park - 7am

The Attadale estate is to be congratulated on its helpful information display, walkers' car park, well-maintained bothy at Bendronaig, and generally welcoming attitude to responsible walkers.

At 7.50am, I was off. The first mile or so was up a well-tarred road, more or less on the level, then the hard work began! In the next 4km, the track climbed from sea-level to a bealach at 350m.

just starting the climb up the track

I pushed the bike up the steeper sections (saving the legs for later exertions!) but was able to cycle some of the way.

nearly at the top!

Although steep in places, the surface of the track was fine for cycling, even on my road bike. The most dramatic section was the final climb up alongside a gorge to Loch na Caillich, then up the hairpins beyond.

Eventually, the track levelled out, and the two Munros appeared, still 4 miles away:

Bidein a' Choire Sheasgaich (left) and Lurg Mhor (right) from the high point of the track

Now gravity took over, and I was able to trundle downhill towards my destination. The thought of having to cycle back up here later in the day was pushed to the back of my mind. Just before reaching Bendronaig Lodge, the track makes a detour to cross the Black Water by a fine 100-year old bridge.

the bridge across the Uisge Dubh

Just under 2 hours after leaving the car park, I arrived at the bothy, 11km in from the road. Ahead the track deteriorated, so it was time to abandon the bike and start walking.

I chatted to an older couple who had been camping, and had climbed the two Munros the day before, then set off up the track, now 10am.

If I thought the hard work was over, I was wrong! After following the track for 3km up Coire na Sorna, Lurg Mhor's bulky slopes lay before me. The next 2 hours was a wearying toil up pathless grassy slopes, slanting across the hillside above Loch Calavie towards the bealach between Lurg Mhor and Bidein a'Choire Sheasgaich. Rather than climbing right up to the bealach, I clambered up a steeper slope on the right to reach a small plateau at about 830m. The summit cone of Lurg Mhor lay ahead!

approaching Lurg Mhor's summit cone

A final push up the steepening ridge, and at 12.55 I was on the summit - a wee flat grassy area with a large cairn in the middle. Suddenly, a different view opened up. Instead of the broad grassy flank I had ascended, a steep rocky coire dropped away beyond the cairn, and an exciting ridge lay ahead, linking the summit to Meall Mor, its subsidiary top.

the summit cairn of Lurg Mhor with Meall Mor behind

the ridge to Meall Mor

descending the ridge from Lurg Mhor's summit

I decided to continue to the outlying top before stopping for lunch.

The next 30 minutes proved to be the most entertaining part of the day!

Initial progress along the jagged crest descending from Lurg Mhor was straightforward enough, with steep grassy slopes to the right, and jagged rocky drops on the left. I made good progress until a sloping slab gave pause for thought! A short retreat was required, but the slab was easily passed by descending 10m or so on steep grass to its right.

Soon I reached the lowest point between the two tops.

The ascent towards Meall Mor started easily enough. A short rock band astride the ridge was fairly easily climbed near its left hand end.

looking back at Lurg Mhor - the tricky slab level with the top of the snow patch

Beyond this another rock band, perhaps 5m, high appeared to block the way. It could probably have been climbed, but, being on my own at a fairly remote location, I decided that it would be wiser to find a way around. This involved descending about 40m on steep grassy slopes on the right - fine today, but it would no fun on a wet day - to find a point where the rock band could be crossed, then a steep grassy ascent back to the ridge.

Once past this obstacle, it was a gentle stroll to Meall Mor's smooth grassy summit. Time now 13.25, so I found a pleasant spot to sit and eat lunch, while admiring the views - especially to the north.

Lurg Mhor from Meall Mor

Bidein a' Choire Sheasgaich from Meall Mor

And some more distant views ...

An Ruadh Stac, Beinn Damh and Maol Chinn-dearg from Meall Mor

distant view to Fuar Tholl, Sgorr Ruadh, Ben Alligin, Mullach an Rathain and Beinn Liath Mhor

Pleasant as it was to sit in the sun, it was now nearly 2pm, and I was a long way from my base camp, so time to head back along the ridge to Lurg Mhor. I retraced my steps almost exactly, and was soon back on the Munro.

approaching the last rock step on the way back to Lurg Mhor - easily climbed on the crest at the right - and conditions just right for some impressive con-trails in the sky

an omen of the election to come - vapour trails above
Bidein a'Choire Sheasgaich predict an SNP victory?

From Lurg Mhor, I retraced my steps down to the plateau area at 830m, then down another short steep section to the bealach at 730m.

From here, a path led the way up the steep grassy slopes of Bidein a'Choire Sheasgaich.

A word here about names, as today's two Munros are not only two of the most inaccessible, but also two of the most unpronounceable (to non-Gaelic speakers, anyway).

Lurg Mhor is "the big shank", and pronounced "loorrook voar".

Bidein is "the pinnacle of the coire of the farrow (not pregnant) cattle", with Sheasgaich pronounced "heskeech" - not "cheesecake" as some call it!

Language lesson over!

Just below the summit, I met (again) two walkers - father and son, I think - and stopped for a chat (they wanted to know what the wee ridge had been like). 50 minutes after leaving Lurg Mhor, I was atop Bidein, with only 10 more Munros to climb!

only 10 to go!

Another walker had just arrived (having come up from Craig), so we sat and chatted about mountain experiences for the best part of half-an-hour.

At 3.45pm, I left the top, walked along the short nearly level summit ridge, then descended SW towards Sail Riabhach ("brindled heel"), along an interestingly lumpy shoulder.

looking back at Bidein A'Choire Sheasgaich's summit

View from Sail Riabhach, with Skye out to the hazy west

From Sail Riabhach, continuing in a SW direction, I made a rapid descent down steep grassy slopes (how many times have I said that today?) back to the track through Coire na Sorna ("coire of the furnace"). By now it was certainly hot enough to live up to its name, and the pool at its foot looked very inviting.

inviting pool, with Lurg Mhor just peeping over in the distance

However, I decided that time was pressing, and I reached my bike at Bendronaig Lodge just after 5pm. 10 minutes rest, then off along the track.

looking back to Bendronaig Lodge with Bidein a' Choire Sheasgaich (left) and Lurg Mhor (right)

In fact, the climb back up to the bealach wasn't too bad, and I only had to get off and push on a couple of short steeper sections.

The descent looked trickier, especially the initial hairpins! I did get off and walk down the first 2 or 3 bends, but then was able to cycle most of the rest.

steep descent!

With brakes full on, I rattled my way down the track, clinging on to the handlebars for dear life, and then sped along the final tarred section back to the car. I hour 25 minutes from Bendronaig Lodge. I think I may need to buy new brake blocks!

So, the questions now are:
(1) what's the weather forecast for tomorrow? and...
(2) if it's good, am I fit for another big walk without a rest day?

A quick phone call home ascertained that the answer to question (1) is "another excellent day", so the answer to (2) has to be "yes, let's go for it!" Read on ...

Summary:

2 Munros + 1 Top

14km walk + 22km cycle

1550m climb

11 hours

Log:

left car	07:50
Bendronaig Lodge	09:45 - 10:00
Lurg Mhor (M)	12:55
Meall Mor (T)	13:25 - 13:55
Lurg Mhor (M)	14:20
Bidein a'C S	15:10 - 15:45
Bendronaig Lodge	17:10 - 17:20
back to car	18:45

posted 01/05/11

Hallelujah!

2011-04-24T12:40:00.000+01:00

Happy Easter - blog followers!

Christ is risen! He is risen indeed!

.... and the blog is now up-to-date!

Roll on the last 12 Munros!

Target date for "compleating" is first weekend of July. Watch this space ....

Spanish interlude

2011-04-08T16:00:00.000+01:00

Friday 8th April 2011 Monte Abantos

And so to the start of the 2011 season....

Often, we get away to the hills at Easter, but this year we had planned a visit to Madrid to see Cat and Teun. While we were there, they took us out for a day's walking in the Sierra de Guadarrama, about an hour's drive northwest of Madrid.

Although the highest point was 1753m (5751ft), so well into "Munro" zone, we were able to get up to 1500m by car - up a steep winding road through the forest to Puerto de Malagon.

hot car at Puerto de Malagon

Our route took us by rough paths across moorland to a large reservoir, then up a forest road to Casa de la Cueva - where we lunched under the welcome shade of some large trees - then had fun climbing some giant granite boulders.

on the boulders at Casa de la Cueva

A short walk from there, up a road at first, then a woodland path, brought us out to the escarpment, which we would follow back to our starting place. A good place to sit for a while, admiring the scenery.

Cat on the granite tors at the escarpment

From here, we followed a good path through the woods, with several ups and downs, to San Juan (1734m)

Anne and Cat on the path along the escarpment

looking down on Valle de los Caidos from summit of San Juan (1734m)

summit of Abantos

We followed the path beyond San Juan, over two more ups and downs, to reach the day's highest point - Monte Abantos (1753m) - its top marked by a cross (and some sort of microwave aeriel).

Here, for the first time, the view really opened up over El Escorial and the plains of central Spain - but too hazy to see as far as Madrid itself.

After admiring the view for a while, we returned to the car by way of a good path / track.

Although all our route had been on easy paths, it looked like there was plenty of scope for more adventurous climbing on some of the ridges we had seen.

Maybe next time ....

view down to El Escorial from the path back to the car

posted by D. Bethune 08/05/11

Latest Updates

2011-01-28T23:03:00.008Z

12: An Socach (Glen Affric) (15th August 2010)

15,14,13: Glen Affric trio (14th August 2010)

19,18,17,16: The Strathfarrar Four (29th July 2010)

22,21,20 - the Conbhairean group (23rd July 2010)

29-23: 7 in a day - it can only be... (22nd July 2010)

30: Sgurr Mor, Glen Kingie (13th July, 2010)

The Coire Thollaid horseshoe, Glenfinnan (12th July 2010)

Munro number 250: Ben Avon (25th June 2010)

solo day revisiting some Cuillin peaks, and watching Winky, Tony, Pam and Andrew on the In Pinn (3 June 2010)

36,35,34: a wet day in Skye (2nd June 2010)

"rest day" on Skye (31st May 2010)

Hamish's Mountain Walk

2011-01-28T21:17:00.000Z

Have just finished reading Hamish's Mountain Walk - for the second time.

It is the story of Hamish Brown completing the first continuous ascent of all the Munros.

I read it soon after it was published back in the late 1970s, but this time around I could picture most of the hills as he described them.

It's a great read, highly recommended.

Hamish has a very easy style, maintaining interest with many anecdotes along the way, as he battles with all the vagaries of the Scottish climate!

Obviously, I don't have nearly the depth of experience that Hamish Brown has, but I can relate to his enjoyment of the hills, of being alone in the hills, and I love the way he naturally expresses his faith throughout the story.

If you haven't read it, get a copy.

Bodmin Moor and the Himalaya

2010-11-26T16:47:00.001Z

Since the summer, the only high point has been Rough Tor on Bodmin Moor, while on holiday down in Cornwall. Not particularly high, and only 40 minutes walk from the car park, up an easy grassy slope. What a playground, though - massive granite boulders perched on top of each other scattered all over the top and surrounding high ground. Well worth a visit!

Anne on Showery Tor, Bodmin Moor

The summit of Rough Tor

atop the "logan stone" on Louden Hill, which rocks a few inches up and down like a see-saw!

Back home in dreich November, I had a great night out at "First on Everest" in Edinburgh. Arranged by Doug Scott to raise funds to support the Sherpas and porters on Nepal, this was a series of illustrated talks.

First up was Hamish McInnes, talking about an early trip to the Himalaya way back in 1953. Next was Tom Hornbein, a sprightly 80 year old, who was first to traverse Everest - up the east ridge, over the summit, and down by the South Col route. Some hair-raising moments - like doing an ice-axe arrest as the tent headed downhill at 26000 feet!

Doug Scott, 1975

Doug Scott, 2010

The main course was Doug Scott and Tut Braithwaite describing the 1975 first ascent by the NW face. The scary part (for me, that is!) was realising that it was 34 years ago that I saw the same photos in the Usher Hall, with the same story being told by Dougal Haston. Doug Scott, who had looked like John Lennon in his hippy years back in 1976, was now a tall silver-haired gentleman! Time changes us all.

During the interval, Doug auctioned some framed prints, signed by himself, and other famous mountaineers. These sold for anything from £150 to £500. I contented myself by buying a (signed) poster of Doug Scott's famous picture of Dougal Haston climbing the Hillary Step on the 1975 expedition (right) - cost me £10! Now with a £25 frame, it has replaced a 3000-piece jigsaw of Mont Blanc on the living room wall!

Finally, Peter Habeler (perhaps most famous for climbing Eiger's north face with Reinhold Messner) recounted the first climb of Everest without oxygen - including a 9 hour bivouac at the South Summit on the descent. In delightfully heavily accented (Austrian) English , he described the intense emotions experienced by any Everest mountaineer.

Superb evening - and all in a good cause: Community Action Nepal.

For more details of Doug's lectures, see http://www.dougscottmountaineering.co.uk

For more details of Community Action Nepal, see http://www.canepal.org.uk/

12: An Socach

2010-08-15T16:56:00.001+01:00

An Socach (Glen Affric) 15th August 2010

Next morning, and once again the car park at the top of Glen Affric was alive with midges! Cloud low, but forecast to "burn off" by mid-morning,

Today's target was my sole remaining unclimbed Glen Affric hill - An Socach ("the snout"). A small hill, but a long way in ...

I set off on the bike at 8.50am, following the forest track on the south side of Loch Affric.

Affric Lodge, across the loch

I made steady progress (despite tired legs from yesterday) along the ups and downs of the track, and, sure enough, the mist started to break up, and blue sky appeared above, with splendid views of the surrounding hills.

An Tudair, Mam Sodhail (just visible) and Carn Eighe, across Loch Affric

An Tudair across Loch Affric - blue sky!

Beyond the loch, the track dropped down to the river crossing at Athnamulloch, with great views up the glen ahead.

looking up the glen to Beinn Fhada

Mullach Fraoch Choire above Athnamulloch

Beyond the bridge, the track deteriorated and the going was reduced to near walking speed, but I managed to continue for 2.5 km to the foot of the Allt Coire Ghaidheil, which was where I intended to finish my walk. The 11 km had taken an hour and a half, but I reckoned it would be well worth it, especially on the way back.

Perversely, the track improved again beyond this point, and another 40 minutes on foot brought me to Alltbeithe (Glen Affric Youth Hostel). As I walked, I met a few youth hostellers heading out of the glen.

Alltbeithe - Glen Affric Youth Hostel

At 11.10am, I was glad to sit down outside the Youth Hostel for some food and coffee. I was joined by another lone walker who had come across from Glen Shiel over the top of Ciste Dubh already that morning! We set off walking together up behind the Youth Hostel, but I think his morning exertions had taken their toll, and soon he dropped behind me.

I followed the excellent path steeply up alongside the Allt na Faing (another one - see yesterday's blog), and was soon up into Coire na Cloiche ("the coire of the stone"). Not sure if it was named after a specific stone, as there were plenty lying around, or perhaps the crags of the hill behind the coire, Stob Coire na Cloiche.

By now the midday sun was beating down fairly mercilessly, so I was glad to be able to replenish my water supplies so high up. At 600m, I reached the bealach, and looked over to Mullach na Dheireagain.

Decision time: to the right, the direct route up An Socach; to the left, Stob Coire na Cloiche, an outlying top of Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan. My legs said "right", but my head said "left"!

Left it was - and so my protesting legs carried me up the short ridge, with a wee scramble through a rock band, to reach the top at 13.15. Apart from the satisfaction of gaining another "top", this wee peak proved to be a fine viewpoint, and an ideal place for lunch!

Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan from Stob Coire na Cloiche

looking east form Stob Coire na Cloiche towards An Socach, with Carn Eighe and Mam Sodhail in the distance

Rested, fed and coffeed, I headed back down to the bealach, then up the winding path to An Socach. A lonely tent was pitched beside the path on the first bump.

looking back to Stob Coire na Cloiche, with Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan behind

One final pull up on tired legs, and I was on my 272nd Munro, An Socach, at 2.20pm. Two other walkers were there, too, so a chat and a photo opportunity.

weary Munroist on An Socach

The broad south ridge provided a pleasant highway back towards lower ground, with fine views back up to the mountain from An Sornach, the curving ridge below. A "sornach" is something like an open fireplace made of stones, so not sure why the ridge is so named, unless it refers to the way this ridge curls round the open end of Coire Gaidheal.

south ridge of An Socach, with Sgurr nan Conbhairean across Glen Affric

looking back to An Socach from An Sornach

Finally, a steep grassy descent back to the bike. Stopped for a long chat with a local man and two German friends, before pedalling off back down the glen to the car park.

Summary:
1 Munro + 1 Top
11km walk + 22km cycle
800m climb
11 hours

Log:

left car	08:50
left bike	10:20 - 10:30
Alltbeithe Youth Hostel	11:10 - 11:25
Stob Coire na Cloiche (T)	12:55 - 13:10
An Socach (M)	14:20 - 14:40
back to bike	15:50 - 16:15
back to car park	17:35

15,14,13: Glen Affric circuit

2010-08-14T21:24:00.001+01:00

Mam Sodhail, Carn Eighe, Beinn Fhionnlaidh, Tom a'Choinich (14th Aug 2010)

It had been a productive summer - now down to only 16 Munros still to climb. We had to return home at the start of August for various meetings, and a visit from Cat and Teun. With a few days left before the start of the new term, and a good forecast, I headed back up the A9 (but just me this time) to see if I could add the 4 remaining Glen Affric Munros.

Friday 13th, and a slow run north with heavy traffic. Fish supper at Beauly, e-mails from just outside Cannich campsite (their free wi-fi doesn't stop at the fence!), then on up to the top of the glen. Parked there at 8.30pm. We had remarked earlier in the summer how few midges there seemed to be this year - maybe the cold winter had killed them all off. But no - they had just been biding their time - and now it seemed every midge in Scotland was in Glen Affric! I didn't venture far out of the car!

midge carnage

Next morning was the same! I set up the stove on the picnic table to boil the kettle - then dived back into the car until it was ready! See midge carnage (right). The stove burned up a few thousand, but zillions escaped! Definitely the worst midges I have seen since SU camps in Glen Etive in the 1970s!

Anyway, at 8.45am I set off (very!) briskly up the track towards Affric Lodge. The sky was overcast, but the forecast promised it would lift as the day progressed.

misty morning on Loch Affric

20 minutes walk along the track to Affric Lodge, then sharp right up a good stalkers' path - midges still following! The path then turned sharp left to slant up a steeper section, then sharp right again up on to the moorland. Here I overtook a strangely clad motley group of walkers, then struck off left across the moor towards the foot of Sgurr na Lapaich. A very rudimentary (or should that be vestigial?) path wound its way across the (fairly dry) bog, with intermittent marker posts to show the way. The path petered out at the Allt na Faing ("sheepfold burn") so I headed up the heathery slopes on the left, and thence to the small notch at the foot of Sgurr na Lapaich's ("peak of the bog") south ridge.

summit cairn, Sgurr na Lapaich

Here the path reappeared, and would its way up between rocky outcrops to the misty summit, with its large and prominent cairn (left).

Once again, a repeated name - with the Mullardoch Munro, Sgurr na Lapaich, not far away to the north. I guess a lot of Munro's could be well-named as Sgurr na Lapaich!

11.10am. 30 minutes ahead of schedule, so a good start to the day. Time for a rest!

... and the sun started to break through - perfect timing - opening up views down to the valley below.

To the west, the broad grassy ridge towards Mam Sodhail looked inviting, although the mist was still hiding the summits of both Mam Sodhail and Carn Eighe (the 14th and 12th highest Munros, and the highest north of the Great Glen).

the ridge west from Sgurr na Lapaich towards Mam Sodhail (completely hidden) and Carn Eighe (just appearing)

A striking feature of the initial part of this ridge is a curious 3m high escarpment running along the ridge, apparently caused by some sort of landslip (seen below, in retrospect from the Mam Sodhail - Carn Eighe bealach).

looking back to Sgurr na Lapaich (with escarpment) and Mullach Cadha Rainich from the Carn Eighe - Mam Sodhail bealach

Leaving Sgurr na Lapaich behind, I made rapid progress along the broad mossy ridge, up and over Mullach Cadha Rainich ("hill of the bracken pass") - craggy on its north side, grassy to the south - then along a strangely lumpy section, before reaching the narrowing (but grassy) ridge as it swept up to the summit of Mam Sodhail ("hill of the barns") .

the bumpy section between Mullach Cadha Rainich and Mam Sodhail

the grassy ridge leading up to Mam Sodhail - and a tiny bit of blue sky appearing above the bealach

To the right, the long east ridge of Carn Eighe appeared out of the mist, with its unexpected pinnacles, which I hoped to visit later in the day. Carn Eighe (or Eige) itself still had its head in the clouds!

looking across to Carn Eighe's pinnacles, perched on an otherwise grassy ridge

Carn Eighe's steep SE face above Loch Uaine - certainly green (uaine), but a bit small to be called a "loch"

An hour and a half after leaving Sgurr na Lapaich, Mam Sodhail's summit cairn loomed out of the mist.

This massive cairn (left) is 4-sided and hollow, but with no entrance - apparently built by the Ordnance Survey to house surveying instruments.

Despite the mist, my stomach was saying "lunchtime", so I "cooried doon" in the shelter of the cairn, hoping for the sun to break through - but it didn't - yet!

From the cairn, I followed the path down to the bealach above Loch Uaine, and emerged into sunshine again. What a difference 100m can make!

The original plan had been to continue up the other side to Carn Eighe (only a kilometre and a drop of 130m separates the 2 Munros), but I could see that it would be easy to contour across the west side of Carn Eighe, and make first for Beinn Fhionnlaidh. Carn EIghe could wait for later.

heading across the back of Carn Eighe towards Beinn Fhionnlaidh

Once across the back of Carn Eighe, I joined the path leading down from Carn Eighe's summit, making a short detour to the intermediate top, Stob Coire Lochan. Really nothing more than a bump on the long ridge out to Beinn Fhionnlaidh, but a good viewpoint nonetheless.

Stob Coire Lochan and Beinn Fhionnlaidh - with An Socach and An Riabhachan (Mullardoch) behind

Here I stopped for 5 minutes to take in the view down to (naturally) Coire Lochan (is that the name of the Coire or the name of the Lochan?!) and its outflow - would you believe it? - Allt Coire Lochan!

Another short drop to "bealach beag", then a 150m grassy climb to Beinn Fhionnlaidh's short summit ridge. An hour and a half after leaving Mam Sodhail, I reached the summit cairn, and met my first other human being for 6 hours! Enjoyed a chat for a while, before he headed off back down towards Iron Lodge.

happy Munroist on Beinn Fhionnlaidh

Beinn Fhionnlaidh is a fine peak in its own right, and one of the hardest Munros to get to. The options are either the long walk out and back from Carn Eighe, a long cycle and walk up Glen Elchaig or a trip up Loch Mullardoch by boat, followed by a 750m unrelenting slog to the summit. Whichever way, it is worth the effort - a fine viewpoint in the middle of nowhere.

It was now mid-afternoon, the sky was blue, the sun warm, and I could easily have dozed off leaning against the cairn!

view across Loch Mullardoch to (the other) Sgurr na Lapaich, from Beinn Fhionnlaidh

Lovely as it was sitting alone on Beinn Fhionnlaidh, I was aware that I was 15km from base, and had 5 tops and 2 Munros still to visit, so my 25 minute idyll had to come to an end, and at 15.10 I set off back along the ridge towards Carn Eighe.

Carn Eighe (left) and Mam Sodhail (right) from Beinn Fhionnlaidh

This time by-passing Stob Coire Lochan, it took just over an hour to reach the next Munro, a 350m ascent following the curving ridge around its massive northern coire. Hard going on tired legs up the steep middle section, but soon I reached its rounded summit plateau, and patted the massive cairn and trig point.

view north from Carn Eighe

I found a nice place to sit, looking north over the very blue lochan towards Beinn Fhionnlaidh and the Mullardochs. I also discovered that there was a strong mobile signal up there, so was able to speak to Anne back home in Selkirk. However, the midges - which I thought had been left behind - reappeared, so it was soon time to get moving again.

But what a prospect - a delightful 5km high level walk (never dropping below 960m) over 5 tops to the day's final Munro, Tom a' Choinnich.

First, a gentle stroll down then along a broad grassy ridge to Stob a' Choire Dhomhain ("peak of the deep coire"), passing a couple setting up a tent in a green hollow for an overnight camp.

Once over the gentle crest of this top, the ridge changed direction suddenly, with a row of jagged teeth sitting incongruously on a narrow section.

from S.a'C Dhomhain to the pinnacles, S.C. Dhomhnuill and Sron Garbh

the pinnacles, up close

The pinnacles provided some minor scrambling fun, before continuing to the next top, Stob Choire Dhomhnuill ("peak of Donald's Coire"), scarcely a top, just a bump on the ridge - the Munro committee were clearly in a generous mood hereabouts!

Carn Eighe to Sa'ChD: 1km, 50m ascent, 20 minutes
Sa'ChD to SChD: 1km, 30 m ascent, 15 minutes
SChD to SG: 1km, 30m ascent, 10 minutes

Only Fafernie on Cairn Bannock is easier than that!

Still, I'm not complaining - it was a lovely stroll along the ridge - broad and green, then pinnacles, then broad and green again - to Sron Garbh ("rough nose").

looking back over the pinnacles to the grassy top of Stob a'Choire Dhomhain (hardly a "stob" from this angle!)

Sron Garbh effectively marks the eastern end of Carn Eighe - beyond it the ridge drops to 960m, before rising to An Leth-Chreag, the western outlier of Tom a' Choinnich. An appropriate place, then for a 10 minute rest, slug of coffee, and whatever was left in the lunch box. It would have been possible to drop down from here to Gleann nam Fiadh, but I was going well, and decided to press on for the net two tops and Munro.

Despite the dip in the ridge, it still only took 25 minutes to the next top, An Leth-chreag ("the half-rock"). Then 10 minutes to Tom a'Choinnich Beag (a lovely little peak), and 15 minutes for the final pull up to Tom a' Choinnich ("hill of the moss") at 6.35pm.

I had last been here back in 1981, when it was my 22nd Munro, with Anne and Marjory, and got to within a 100m of the top again in 1983 after climbing Toll Creagach, but it was late October and the rocky east ridge was very icy, so I turned back on that occasion.

Toll Creagach from Tom a' Choinnich

looking SE from Tom a' Choinnich towards Loch Beinn a' Mheadhoin

Another 10 minute rest on this last summit of the day. I had wondered about the route of descent - down the SW ridge? or down the E ridge then down the glen? Viewed form the summit, the SW ridge looked very inviting, so that was the decision. And it proved to be a good one, with a good path all the way, dropping fairly gently for the first kilometre, then more steeply down Creag na h-Inghinn ("the daughter's crag") into Gleann nam Fiadh ("Glen of the deer"), and still catching the sun, while the glen below was already in shade.

The last 15 minutes of descent brought a lovely surprise - the evening sun shining on the heather was filling the air with the most amazing scent of honey.

An hour after leaving the summit, I was back down to the main stalkers' path down Gleann nam Fiadh - and the midges!! No time for lingering here!

Tom a' Choinnich (right) and Carn Eighe (left) from Gleann nam Fiadh

So, a quick march down the path, which soon turned into a track, and at 8.45pm I reached the road. I found the bike I had stashed there the previous evening, and cycled back up to the car park as rapidly as my tired legs would allow. Boots off quick, and into the car before the midges descended in their zillions!

Summary:

4 Munros + 8 tops

28 km walk + 2 km cycle

1950 m climb

12 hours

Log:

left car	08:45
Sgurr na Lapaich (T)	11:10 - 11:25
Mullach Cadha Rainich (T)
Mam Sodhail (M)	12:55 - 13:10
Stob Coire Lochan (T)	14:00 - 14:05
Beinn Fhionnlaidh (M)	14:45 - 15:10
Carn Eighe (M)	16:20 - 16:45
Stob a'Choire Dhomhain (T)	17:05
Stob Choire Dhomhnuill (T)	17:20
Sron Garbh (T)	17:30 - 17:40
An Leth-chreag (T)	18:05 - 18:10
Tom a' Choinnich Beag (T)	18:20
Tom a' Choinnich (M)	18:35 - 18:45
Gleann na Fiadh path	19:45
back to bike at road	20:45
car park	20:55

written 22/04/11

left car	08:30
river crossing	10:35 - 11:00
north top	13:15
middle top	13:25
Beinn a' Chlaidheimh (M)	13:30 - 14:05
river crossing	15:10 - 15:50
back to car	18:20